Ni Hao

I visited Southwest China for the first time some five years ago and was surprised how advanced and modern China had become. As a traveller, my first impression of China was quite positive. When I got a fair job offer a while ago to teach in Chengdu (Sichuan province), I decided to accept it up and move to the most populous nation on Earth. As living in a country is usually very different from travelling, I wasn’t really sure what to expect so you could call it a calculated step into the unknown. So far, after almost a month, I haven’t regretted a minute of it. Since I haven’t had the time yet to soak it all up, this month’s column will be a brief overview of what has captured my attention so far, especially in comparison to Thailand.

When I first went for a stroll after touching down, I noticed how quiet the city streets were. Although there are plenty of cars of all makes and origins, and associated traffic jams or rather stop-and-go traffic, there are still lots of bicycles to be seen on city streets. Many bicycles and most – if not all – motorbikes are electric and don’t make any noise whatsoever. Bicycle lanes are abundant and pavements are incredibly wide and uncluttered. Although walking and cycling can still be done in Chinese metropolises without risking life or limbs, cars are king and drivers often don’t give way to pedestrians unless there are traffic lights and zebra crossings. The free right turn spoils this though.

Chinese food is excellent; ordering it, however, can be daunting if the restaurant doesn’t have an English or picture menu. The average Chinese shopkeeper or waiter has very low or non-existent English skills. Tables usually sport real tissues or napkins instead of toilet paper like in Thailand. Local beer is drinkable, cheap and not very strong (avg. 3.6%). Drinking beer with ice would be considered an oddity. Although smoking is prohibited in many public places, some people still light up in restaurants and public toilets.

Shopping opportunities are everywhere. There are several major shopping areas in the city with plenty of malls and supermarkets. The latter cater to both Chinese and western tastes. Imported products are available at higher but affordable prices. Local products are cheap and fresh. Seeing turtles on sale at Carrefour was a first for me though. And no, there weren’t meant as pets, but were sold in the fresh foods department. There seem to be quite a few entertainment zones and venues as well, but I haven’t had time to check them out yet.

Living conditions are good, and the average size of apartments and condos is considerably bigger than in Bangkok. Forty square metres would be considered tiny in China. Most – if not all – places come fully furnished and include fridge, TV, washing machine, cooker, possibly microwave oven and A/C-heater combination, yet remain affordable. Renting always needs to be done via an estate agent, so you’ll need some local help if you don’t speak Chinese.

When it comes to teaching English, there are very few good ESL resources available and course books from international publishers such as OUP, Macmillan, Longman or Cambridge are not available locally but need to be ordered. By the way, the one-child policy the Chinese authorities have imposed for decades now makes ‘Family’ units in course books virtually redundant, since most people don’t have any brothers, sisters, nieces, nephews, uncles, aunts, cousins, brothers-in-law or sisters-in-laws.

Zai jian (goodbye) for now.

Check out Philip's photo portfolio on www.flickr.com/photos/philiproeland.
The author of this article can be contacted at philiproeland@hotmail.co.uk.
1/9/2009

The Golden Land

My regional sightseeing trips took me to Myanmar last month. Due to limited time – just eight days – we only explored the capital Yangon and the nearby cities of Bago and Kyaiktiyo. I didn’t want to rush around, so we skipped the great city of Mandalay and the must-see temple town of Bagan, destinations I was fortunate enough to visit some years ago. If you wonder why of all places I chose Myanmar, the availability of cheap Air Asia tickets (2,150 baht return from Bangkok), the abundant cultural sites and the fact that I had already visited most of Southeast Asia would be the main reasons.

I do realize that with the international condemnations and boycott following the recent trial on trumped-up criminal charges of pro-democracy icon and Nobel Peace Prize winner Aung San Suu Kyi, the Golden Land, as Myanmar is also called, is probably one of the least popular tourist destinations worldwide (together with Iraq and North Korea). Actually, these countries are part of what George Bush used to call the Axis of Evil, although Axis of Poor Infrastructure might be a more suitable moniker.

Myanmar doesn’t welcome a great many visitors these days, so the country isn’t geared towards tourism like its Thai neighbour. Although people won’t exactly stare at you, you’ll generally have little interaction with locals, apart from hotel and restaurant staff. Also, although most people are either friendly or mind their own business, it is clear that many don’t know how to deal with tourists, but they try. As Myanmar is not exactly the most prosperous Asian nation, local businesses could do with some extra cash and would welcome more independent tourists spreading their wealth around.

Visiting Myanmar independently doesn’t mean you’re supporting the reviled military regime, as you’ll spend most of your money in private businesses such as hotels, restaurants, local guides, regional handicrafts and bus companies. There are of course some moderate entry fees to the most interesting temple sites, but these seem to go towards the upkeep and restoration of the sites, an admirable feat for a cash-strapped country that teetered on the brink of civil war a few years back.

Locals will have to learn to deal with travelling barbarians of course. For example, in downtown Yangon, there are numerous restaurants and teashops, yet there are hardly any tourists seen among the patrons. Lack of English menus, nobody to welcome you or usher you in and the fact that many establishments seem a men-only affair won’t earn them many tourist dollars. Also, the crowded yet crumbling streets around Sule Paya that look like London after the Blitzkrieg don’t provide a world-class culinary setting. Food is leaning mainly towards Indian, with biryani being served just about everywhere.

Although there is no lack of hotels and guesthouses, insufficient guests and income apparently hinders upkeep and renovation. This isn’t hard to understand when the country has fewer than 1,000 tourist arrivals daily – a mere fraction of the 50,000 revellers its Thai neighbour welcomes every day. This has basically put the whole country off the beaten track, something which might attract the more adventurous traveller.

Although within in the country there are no visible signs of public disgruntlement with the hard-handed regime, this doesn’t mean all is hunky dory. The Union of Myanmar, as it is officially called, is a quilt of seven divisions (mainly Bamar or Burmese) and seven different states (usually home to ethnic minorities, Shan State being the biggest). Many of the states have their own administration and separate armies and I wouldn’t be surprised if future troubles or uprisings would lead to a Yugoslavia scenario, triggering the creation of a swath of new nations. Police and soldiers were nowhere to be seen during my visit. Perhaps they have retrenched or dug themselves in around the new capital of Naypyidaw, located somewhere in the jungle.

Tourist-wise, Myanmar really has a lot of wonderful sights to offer. If it weren’t for its international isolation and lack of infrastructure, it could rival Cambodia and Vietnam combined. Unfortunately, it’ll probably take a couple of decades and billions of dollars before roads are fixed and power plants completed. It’ll also take a new, democratic government and a massive injection of foreign aid and investment.

Getting around the country can be daunting. There are lots of buses and even some train lines, but it often takes a lot longer to get from point A to B than you’re used to. Flying is a quick and fairly affordable option (Air Bagan is one of the local airlines), but of course, you don’t get to know the country very well doing so. As it stands now, travel is fairly easy but time-consuming. For example, the nearest beach is barely 100 kilometres from the capital, yet it takes four hours to get there and it is all but straightforward. Kyaiktiyo, home of the sacred and mind-boggling Golden Rock, is located just over 200 kilometres from the capital, but it almost takes a day to get to the top of the mountain (or vice versa). By the way, the person who designed the main bus station in Yangon ought to be hanged, drawn and quartered. Not only is it further from the city centre than the airport, it is also a cluttered and disorganised affair in the middle of nowhere.

In Myanmar, a new taxi is usually less than 10 years old, while the average age of the whole fleet is probably closer to 25 years. Air-conditioning in taxis or on buses means windows (and possibly doors) open. Some cars, buses and trucks could have been called new just after the Second World War. In spite of these minor inconveniences, the Golden Land offers a treasure trove of temples, historical sites and ruins – and can be a photographer’s dream. Visas allow you a stay of 28 days and can be obtained at local Burmese embassies (be polite and patient).

In order to take it all in, the intrepid traveller will have to take his time, be patient and put up with a bit more hassle and a lot less luxury than in other countries. If you take the trouble though, you won’t be disappointed. If you don’t like to travel independently and make all arrangements yourself, you can hire a local guide with car to take you around the country for as long as you wish (30-50 USD per day, depending on your bargaining skills and quality of guide and vehicle). You will probably get to see a lot more of the country than when you travel by night bus. Finally, if you’re married to a woman whose idea of having a good time is trolling around A/C shopping malls for bargains or brand name goods, I’d go it alone or give it a miss altogether.

Check out Philip's Myanmar photo portfolio on http://www.flickr.com/photos/philiproeland">www.flickr.com/photos/philiproeland
The author of this article can be contacted at philiproeland@hotmail.co.uk.
1/8/2009

The Ideal Student

It is generally acknowledged that a teacher's life is often stressful and daunting and that pursuing a teaching career is not exactly the shortest path to fame and riches. This seems to be more or less true all around the world. Nevertheless, legions of foreigners still end up on Thailand's shores each year, either competing for the most lucrative positions or contenting themselves with securing less demanding jobs. Schools, on the other hand, try to pick the cream of the crop in an attempt to sign up the illusive ideal teachers.

However, if school boards and parents keep insisting on higher standards, we teachers should at least be allowed to fantasise about the benchmarks for role model students. This month's column doesn't focus on teachers and how to achieve near-perfection, but on what the ideal student would be like. Let's keep in mind though that nobody's perfect and that most teachers would probably be over the moon if only a slight majority of students showed some of the traits mentioned below. Again, like in 'The Ideal Teacher' piece (Feb 2009 column), these characteristics are not based on full-scale research among teachers but rather on personal experience. Also, finding an accurate yardstick valid for the whole student body worldwide is tantamount to looking for the Holy Grail as regional cultures and customs play a determining role.

Anyway, these are some of the characteristics I think ideal students should have:

Motivated
You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make it drink. Even the best qualified teachers will have a hard time transferring their English skills to students if the latter are completely unwilling to absorb any of it. Motivation is vital to doing well when learning a language. More information on how to motivate students can be found in one of last year's columns (March 2008).

Inquisitive
It's very handy for teachers when students occasionally ask questions when they don't understand a word, expression, idiom, grammar point, etc. This not only shows their interest but also gives the teacher valuable feedback without solely having to rely on formal tests (on which lots of students try to cheat anyway). Unfortunately, general lack of interest in learning English and possible loss of face often prevent students from doing so as in Thai culture, asking questions equates to admitting you are stupid.

Cooperative
It's always nice when students do what you ask them to do. Although this may seem self-evident, it not always is. By the way, I'm referring to basic classroom instructions which students understand but sometimes prefer to ignore. Examples are 'Please open your books on page 27' (met by blank stares), 'Attention everyone' (students keep talking among themselves), 'Be quiet please' (students start talking more loudly), 'Please do exercise 3 on page 11' (students start moaning 'mai ao') and 'Please move your chairs and sit in groups of four like we've been doing for the last three months’ (students look flabbergasted and remain immobile)

Enthusiastic
Let's just say it is far more pleasant to teach a group of motivated, energetic students than a bunch of loafers slouching in their chairs with boredom written all over their faces.

Unafraid to make mistakes
Teachers like students who try out the language they've just learnt when asked to. Controlled practice and free conversation are essential to internalise structure and vocabulary as well as improve pronunciation. Many Asian students, however, have a deep-rooted fear of making the slightest mistake as in their respective cultures this is tantamount to losing face. Consequently, many of them are reluctant to answer oral questions freely or engage in discussions enthusiastically.

Hard-working
Learning a language involves making considerable efforts. In order to better their skills, students not only need to work hard, they should also be persevering and determined. Nobody's active language skills will improve just by listening to a teacher. Teachers can teach, guide and assist students in their learning process, but they can never do the actual learning and practising for them.

Open, talkative
Students who aren't afraid to share their opinions and experiences are a joy to have in the classroom. Being talkative is not only beneficial to students as it will help them progress at a faster pace but also to teachers as this will make their lessons more interesting and faster-paced. For teachers, it is a welcome break from conversation classes in which trying to get students to talk is often similar to pulling teeth.

Realistic
When students are learning a language intensively and practise often outside the classroom, their English skills will pick up quickly. Rome, however, wasn't built in a day, so it is important that students don't have unrealistic expectations when starting a course. One can only achieve so much in a short time. It is impossible to be fluent after doing a 20-hour conversation course or fully prepared for devilish exams such as TOEFL or IELTS after signing up for a 30-hour prep course.

Patient
In my experience it is often the more zealous – but not exceptionally smart - students that can be a wee bit impatient. When they get stuck while doing an exercise they'll call your name or say 'Teacher, come here please' and keep repeating this until you actually go over and help them, even if it is clear that you're in the middle of helping one of their classmates.

Helpful
Some of the more intelligent students who fall in the category 'quick finishers' sometimes turn into real teaching assistants, helping weaker students get through difficult exercises and actually explaining again the teaching point you wanted them to grasp. Needless to say that this is a dream situation where you can easily overlook the use of L1 in the English classroom.

Independent
It is nice to have students who can think for themselves and try to solve problems on their own before asking assistance from either teacher or classmates. Classroom exercises, homework assignments and tests are often subject to blatant copying and cheating as well as any activity that requires critical thinking. Independence is also important when it comes to learning and practising English outside of the classroom. Students who make an effort to do so will usually progress much more rapidly than the ones who constantly need their hands held or only respond to the carrot and stick approach.

Serious
While most students in Thailand perceive this as a negative quality, they only do so because they are referring to the wrong definition, i.e. unable to laugh, quiet, overly thoughtful. I'm using it in the sense of determined. Students who are serious about learning English and willing to put in some serious efforts are obviously easier to teach than the ones who consider it a waste of time or even a joke.

Sense of humour
Using humour in the classroom can help teachers build rapport and create a relaxed and non-threatening atmosphere. Therefore, it's useful if the students have some sense of humour themselves, aren't awestruck by your every casual quip or don't try to dig for biblical meaning in your latest joke gone wrong. However, teachers should never overdo the serious humour part as you don't want to be seen as the resident joker or turn your classroom into Comedy Central.

Well-mannered
Although I have been teaching for years in Thailand, I am still appalled by the lack of basic manners that some students exhibit. Openly sleeping in class, playing computer games, texting, burping, farting, fighting and shouting are some that spring to mind. Some adults aren't much better when they forget to turn off their mobiles or don't even bother going outside of the classroom when taking or making calls. I suppose it's a worldwide phenomenon and I should be somewhat grateful that at least most Thai students don't bring knives and guns into the classroom – and when they do it's not to hurt the teacher but to maim or kill students from rival schools.

Disciplined
Apart from behaving themselves in the classroom and refraining from being rude, unpleasant, cocky, crass, coarse, insolent, obnoxious, uncivil, snotty, ill-bred and vulgar, ideal students should also show some self-discipline when it comes to doing homework, taking exams, practising English outside of the classroom and making genuine efforts in general to further their language skills. After all, their future may depend upon them.

Sociable
Teenage and adult students who enjoy meeting new people and aren't afraid to use English during conversation are definitely a step ahead of their shyer peers, who recoil from speaking to any stranger, no matter what their nationality. Although being gregarious is a trait that is worthwhile having for every language student, I feel it's particularly important when people study – out of their own volition – in a language school where the dynamics of a lesson often depend on the atmosphere and collaboration among all students.

Well-dressed
This is not really an issue as most language learners wear uniforms. Most students dress in their obligatory uniforms, unless they take tutorial weekend classes. Business students are usually dressed business-like, especially when coming from or going to work. Many female university students are dressed in skirts so short and shirts so tight one sometimes wonders if they have lucrative part-time jobs. Although I am not averse to eye candy and prefer sexy girls to dragons and battle-axes, it can be distracting when teaching.

Rich
Although being affluent does not necessarily make learning English easier, it sure helps (both student and teacher) when expensive private lessons are about to come up for renewal. Having the means to travel extensively and practise English along the way is another advantage. Up until now, however, I haven't positively witnessed any correlation between wealth and talent/motivation.

Good-looking
Although I am not averse to teaching students who are easy on the eye, teachers who think that ideal students are sexy and available are clearly crossing a line which is a lot vaguer than in most western countries. Whereas socialising with students may be okay in certain situations (e.g. end-of-course get-together), striking up relationships with students can hardly be called ethical and can lead to immediate dismissal. Fantasising about students among colleagues may be technically legal, but it nevertheless turns my stomach.

Check out Philip's photo portfolio on www.flickr.com/photos/philiproeland.
The author of this article can be contacted at philiproeland@hotmail.co.uk.
1/7/2009

ESLprintables.com

If you’d ask me what my favourite or most visited websites are, Flickr.com, BBCNews.com, the BangkokPost.com, Answers.com, TheFreeDictionary.com, Hotmail and Google would probably top that list. I also surf regularly to quite a few EFL websites, but most of them are just one hit pit stops to me. I don’t often return to one and usually use Google as a starting point to find whatever I need. Until I stumbled upon ESLprintables (www.eslprintables.com).

ESLprintables is a website where EFL teachers from all over the world upload and share their home-made worksheets. Thousands of spiffy worksheets are available for download, all for free. Now don’t stop reading at this point to visit the site, eagerly expecting to siphon off all those materials, because you won’t be able to. Let me explain.

Browsing and searching the site can be done by anyone, but if you want a piece of the action, you’ll need to register – a process which is free and doesn’t take long. After that, you’ll be a registered member of the site, but you’ll still be unable to download any goodies from the treasure trove. That’s because the philosophy behind the site is to give before you take.

In order to download the worksheets you so desperately want when you had a peek, you’ll have to upload some of your own work first. Each worksheet you upload gives you one point and each download of your worksheets by another member gets you one point as well. You can then spend your points downloading the stuff you want. Once you have reached 30 points, you’ll be automatically upgraded to premium member, which means you’ll be able to download 30 recent worksheets for free each day. By the way, if you share quality worksheets, you’ll achieve 30 downloads in no time.

If this sounds too complicated or you’re in dire need of a specific worksheet, ESLprintables is not the site you’re looking for. Instead, you should view this site as a platform where teachers share some of their best creations with others worldwide, free of charge. Should you ever decide to give it a go, get some quality worksheets ready to upload. Make sure it’s your own work, as copied, scanned or stolen material isn’t tolerated on the site. Moderators check uploads for violations of the site’s rules, and flag and remove unacceptable worksheets. By the way, every member with more than 1,000 downloads automatically becomes a moderator.

Although this site is a goldmine when you’re looking for worksheets, there’s more to it. Once you get into creating and uploading your own materials, you might get addicted. You’ll start excitedly monitoring your worksheets, the number of downloads you’ve accumulated and the comments other members make on your worksheets. The forum on the site is rather small and basic, but provides a simple way of addressing the whole community should the need arise. Apart from printable worksheets, members can also upload PowerPoint presentations and make online exercises (this is done with cloud software; instructions provided online).

With 180,246 registered users and 162,784 printables (on May 21, 2009), ESLprintables is unquestionably a popular EFL resource site. The fact that there are more registered users than worksheets may indicate that some cybernauts don’t bother to read the rules and policy before signing up. The site isn’t a money spinner, quite on the contrary. It’s a private initiative from a Spanish teacher named Victor, has no advertising and limited server space. In fact, worksheet uploads are limited to 300Kb and presentations to 500Kb, so the site is definitely no alternative to file-hosting or file-sharing websites like Scribd.com, iFile.it or torrents.

You can check out the thousands of printables on www.eslprintables.com. To access my own materials, you can go straight to www.eslprintables.com/buscador/author.asp?user=60456#thetop.
If you can’t be bothered creating and sharing materials or need some conversation topics fast, feel free to downloads my ‘Let’s talk about’ conversation worksheets on file-hosting site www.scribd.com/PhilipRoeland (free registration).

Check out Philip's photo portfolio on www.flickr.com/photos/philiproeland.
The author of this article can be contacted at philiproeland@hotmail.co.uk.
1/6/2009

Things To Do Before You Die

Over the last few years a myriad of books have been published recommending what to visit, see, eat, drink, do, listen to, etc. I’m referring to titles such as 1000 Places to Visit Before You Die, 500 Cities to See Before You Die, 1000 Books to Read Before You Die, and so on. It seems to have developed into a craze with publications (and websites) such as 1000 Wines to Try, 1000 Recordings to Hear, 500 Trips to Take, 1000 Films to Watch, 500 Natural Wonders to See, 1000 Birds to Spot, 1000 Artworks to See and many more. I wouldn’t be surprised anymore to come across a volume entitled 1000 Cigars to Smoke, 500 Bars to Get Hammered In, 1000 Cathouses to Patronise or 500 STD Clinics to Visit.

From most of the above-mentioned titles I have deliberately omitted the ‘Before You Die’ part as I find it somewhat lugubrious. Actually, I think some of the titles – esp. the ones concerning alcohol and daredevil activities – should be labelled ‘And Then You Die’ or ‘And Hope You Don’t Die’, since doing what the books say could definitely lead to liver cirrhosis at best or an untimely death at worst.

Also, most of what the books prescribe is virtually impossible to do in just one lifetime. For example, the recommended places to visit are spread all over the globe and the reading suggestions contain works such as Tolstoy’s War and Peace. Apart from becoming an energetic and globe-trotting centenarian, being a millionaire is a necessity as well for enjoying many of the fine wines and far-away exotic locations. Not to mention stamina and 20/20 vision for some other activities.

I actually like perusing these books although I am quite aware that I’ll never be able to complete even a tenth of what they encourage people to do. Unless you combine several of the once-in-a-lifetime activities and do so for decades on end, it’s impossible to experience them all. However, I can’t see myself riding a camel (a thing to do) in the streets of Timbuktu (a place to visit) while savouring a Chateaux d’Yquem (a wine to try), puffing on a Cohiba (a cigar to smoke), listening to Tchaikovsky’s 1812 Overture (a recording to hear) and reading Hemingway’s Old Man and the Sea (a book to read) all at the same time.

Although I’m not a die-hard fan of these ‘list-books’ and feel there are too many already, I couldn’t resist jumping on the bandwagon and provide you with some lists of my own. Contrary to the authors of most – if not all – of the books, I decided to include only what I’ve experienced first-hand. My approach unfortunately excludes a number of amazing locations I haven’t been to myself, but so be it. Although most of what I included is definitely worthwhile, I don’t expect you to go running to your local travel agent or bookstore to book a world trip or buy a cartload of novels. You will survive and possibly live happily ever after without treading in someone else’s footsteps and ticking off ‘been there, done that’ lists.

By the way, even though there is occasionally some kind of advice in my column, one of the best pieces of advice I can give is not to listen too much too other people’s advice. Yes, you read that correctly. This is based on the fact that everyone is unique and has different tastes and preferences. What I consider to be a picturesque waterfall might just appear another boring day trip in someone else’s eyes. What others consider must-see ruins may seem uninteresting piles of bricks to me. Some readers may consider Stephen King worthy of a Nobel Prize while others think it is literary rubbish.

So please don’t think you should do everything these lists or books mention, nor should you get frustrated or depressed if you don’t have the means to do so in this lifetime. Nobody would expect a New Yorker to go on a city trip to Sydney or a Singaporean to fly around the world just to see Machu Picchu. However, if you happen to be in the neighbourhood, you might just as well make a detour or add a couple of days to your journey. Alternatively, if you have time and funds aplenty, take a few months (or years) off so you can enjoy some of the beauty at your leisure.

I chose to keep the lists that follow short. I know there are uncountable other marvelous things to see and do around the world, but if you’re really into long lists, just pop out to any of the major English bookshops, spend some cash and support the local economy.

Wonderful Places to Visit in Thailand
1. Chiang Mai (esp. the old part of the city surrounded by the moat)
2. Sukothai and Si Satchanalai World Heritage Sites
3. Krabi, Ko Phi Phi and selected islands in the Andaman Sea
4. Temples and ruins of Ayutthaya
5. Rattanakosin Island, Bangkok (Grand Palace, Wat Pho)
6. Hua Hin and Petchburi (Kao Wang Historical Site)
7. Kanchanaburi
8. Phanom Rung and Phimai
9. Lopburi
10. Mae Hong Son

Breathtaking Sites to See in and around Southeast Asia
1. Temples of Angkor, Cambodia
2. Bagan and Mandalay, Myanmar
3. Halong Bay, Vietnam
4. Luang Prabang, Laos
5. Bukit Lawang and Lake Toba, Sumatra, Indonesia

Stunning Locations Worldwide
1. Machu Picchu and Cuzco, Peru
2. Luxor and Aswan, Egypt
3. Atacama Desert and the Lagunas of the Altiplano (Andean Highlands), Chile
4. Venice, Italy
5. Iguazu Falls, Argentina & Brazil
6. Alice Springs and Ayers Rock, Australia
7. Tropical rainforest, South America
8. Lake Titicaca, Peru and Bolivia

Fabulous Big Cities around the Globe
1. Rome, Italy
2. London, England
3. Sydney, Australia
4. Barcelona, Spain
5. Paris, France
6. Buenos Aires, Argentina

Interesting Medium Cities Worldwide
1. Sevilla and Cadiz, Spain
2. Lijiang and Dali, Southwest China
3. Hue and Hoi An, Central Vietnam
4. Amsterdam, The Netherlands
5. Bruges and Ghent, Belgium

Relaxing Small Towns around the World
1. Vang Vieng, Laos
2. San Pedro de Atacama, Chile
3. Dalat, Vietnam
4. Otavalo and Cuicocha, Ecuador
5. Kuranda, Australia

Worthwhile Daytrips to Take
1. Island and snorkelling trip in Krabi, Andaman Sea, Thailand
2. Sightseeing trip around Iquique, Chile
3. Skyrail Rainforest trip from Cairns to Kuranda, Queensland, Australia
4. Railway trip from Riobambe to Alausi (Nariz del Diablo), Ecuador
5. Trekking in Chiang Mai, Thailand (usually 3-day trip)

Thrilling Authors to Read
1. Tom Clancy
2. Frederick Forsyth
3. Minette Walters
4. Agatha Christie
5. Carl Hiaasen
6. Jeffery Deaver
7. Michael Ridpath
8. Philip Margolin
9. Dick Francis
10. Andy McNab
11. PD James
12. Stephen Leather

Exciting Films to Watch
1. The Shawshank Redemption
2. In the Name of the Father
3. Se7en
4. The Silence of the Lambs
5. An Inconvenient Truth
6. The Usual Suspects
7. Pulp Fiction
8. Something Wild
9. Rattle and Hum
10. Groundhog Day

Must-visit Countries Worldwide
1. Egypt
2. Cambodia
3. Spain
4. Australia
5. Any country in sub-Saharan Africa

Top Destinations on my Wish List
1. India
2. South Africa
3. Mexico
4. Russia
5. Mali
6. Philippines

If you are puzzled with my number 5 choice (any country in sub-Saharan Africa) in my Must-visit Countries Worldwide list, let me explain. If you are reading this online column, you must have a computer or at least access to one. You probably have enough money to spend on leisure activities, eat three meals a day and live in a house that doesn’t have a leaky roof. Visiting an African country will give you some sense of perspective. You’ll realise how incredibly lucky you are because most of the things we take for granted are in very short supply or completely inexistent in this vast continent.

As I’m based in Thailand at the moment, I only thought it fair to give this amazing country its own top 10. However, if the popularity of my photostream on Flickr.com is anything to go by, it could mean that interest in the Land of Smiles has decreased sharply. Among my 200 most popular photos, only 22 are from Thailand. Pictures from Laos are the most popular by a mile, followed by Vietnam as a distant second. Let’s hope the Land of Smiles can find a quick and peaceful solution to the predicament it is in and become a prime and carefree destination its people can be proud of again.

PS: After having written this piece, I came across a book called 1000 Things to do Before you Get Married. After perusing it, I was pretty sure that someone trying to do all the stuff mentioned in it would never get married at all.

Photos of many of these wonderful locations are available on www.flickr.com/photos/philiproeland.
The author of this article can be contacted at philiproeland@hotmail.co.uk.
1/5/2009

Making the Move

Thailand is not only a popular holiday destination, it is also a country many foreigners want to live and work in. However, giving up your life in the west to move halfway around the globe and take a leap into the unknown is evidently no small feat. Uprooting yourself – and possibly wife and kids – from a country you may have lived in since birth takes careful consideration and preparation in order to avoid bitter disappointment down the road.

It will come as no surprise that most people making this life-changing move are single (or happily divorced) without children. Even then, giving up your accustomed surroundings, friends and worldly possessions in pursuit of a more fulfilling life-style is no split-second decision – or one made when under the influence. In this month's article, I'll address some issues that may worry adventurers pondering a move to Thailand to become an English teacher and give some practical advice that might come in handy either before or after the move.

If you're still in the safety of your western home, the first thing you need to ask yourself is whether you are really sure you want to travel to the other side of the world in order to pursue a teaching career – because realistically speaking that is about the only job for which there is a big demand for westerners - and live a long stretch of time in a foreign culture. This decision should never be made just after a fantastic, fun-filled beach holiday in Thailand, where your only daily worries were limited to what to have for lunch and which bar to patronise at night. If your desire to move to the Land of Smiles is mainly based on your urge to see your summer sweetheart again, you'd better let your infatuation cool off a few months in order to avoid rash decisions you might regret forever after.

Once you've made the decision to take the jump, it's time to get organised as you'll have lots of things to do. Quitting your job (if any) and giving notice to your landlord probably top the list. Informing friends and family, selling your furniture (and possibly car) and getting rid of stuff in general are not to be underestimated either. I feel that if you're really committed, it's better to go for a clean break as putting things in storage or filling up your parents' attic only results in unwanted bills and mountains of dust. Moving all your stuff around the world could cost more than it is actually worth. If you're a tenant, subletting your dig to friends may seem a good idea at the time, but once they call you for every minor problem or skip town unannounced you'll wish you hadn't. If you're a home owner, get in touch with a trustworthy estate agent who manages rental properties.

It is probably easiest to make the move to Thailand when you're single, live in rented accommodation, are fed up with your job, don't consider friends and family to be of monumental importance, and are quite familiar with foreign cultures. It is a plus, but not essential or foolproof, that you've visited the country beforehand. Previous teaching experience and relevant qualifications will also give you an important edge. If your employer allows you to take a sabbatical with the option to get your old job back, don't think twice. If you don't have the resources to scout your final destination beforehand or are already planning a possible move back home before even taking off, it might be a good idea idea not to burn all your bridges and have some kind of pull-out scenario in place should things not work out.

Please understand that the above profile is flexible. If you don't fully recognise yourself in it, don't start being miserable and put all your plans on hold. Strong motivation can be an excellent substitute for lack of whatever you're short of if you don't fall into the 'perfect candidate' category. However, if you've never set foot abroad, have never travelled independently, have a hard time making friends, thoroughly dislike exotic food, get homesick easily, are not used to taking the initiative and need your hand held most of the time, then I wouldn't bet the kitchen sink on you bringing the house down in Thailand.

Anyway, let's suppose you do want to move to the Kingdom no matter what. You'll have to save some seed money first in order to pay for a round trip ticket and organise your job hunt once you're on the ground. You should be aware that applying from overseas is virtually a waste of time unless you're PGCE qualified and have teaching experience in your home country. You'll need some nice clothes (which can be acquired quite cheaply in Thailand) and money to get a place to live and buy some essentials (I'm not referring to a wide-screen plasma TV here but to ordinary stuff like bed linen, pillows, a fan, an electric kettle and possibly a fridge).

Airfare and emergency cash included, you'll ideally need a minimum of 3,000 US dollars before making the move. This amount is not set in stone but only a guideline; I estimated airfare at USD 1,000, emergency cash at USD 1,000 and initial expenses at USD 1,000. This is supposing you don't want to find yourself in a faraway land forced to take up a career as a beggar or bum; I am also assuming you don't want to pester your family at home into sending you money every other week or build a reputation as freeloader among your newfound local friends and colleagues. If you plan to do a TEFL or CELTA course before starting your Thai teaching career, make sure to have another fistful of dollars handy.

Don't forget that once you have arrived in the Promised Land, you should hunt for a job before settling into an apartment as you don't want to get stuck in endless traffic for your daily commute. This means that you may have to stay one to four weeks in a hotel or guest house before moving into a more permanent place, depending on the success of your job hunt (by the way, if you still haven't found a satisfactory job after a month, I'd start planning the return leg). Get yourself a local SIM card – available on just about every street corner - so that possible employers can contact you easily. Get streetwise in your new surroundings. Know that metered taxis, Skytrain and subway are often the easiest and cheapest way to get to an unknown destination timely without arriving drenched in sweat. This is no time to start saving a few baht by using non-A/C buses or walking several kilometres to your next interview in the sweltering heat.

Once you have successfully landed a job, start looking for a place to live. Inner city places near good transport links might save you a lot of time but usually come at a considerable premium. Although Skytrain (BTS) and underground (MRT) are difficult to beat when it comes to getting around easily, they are rather limited in range. Many areas outside of the city centre have comfortable vans and buses going into the belly of the beast, so unless you are addicted to the adult entertainment zones in downtown Bangkok, taking up a job on the outskirts of Greater Bangkok is definitely worth considering. I wouldn't dismiss jobs further afield out of hand simply because of the absence of either Skytrain or underground. As taxis are cheap, the money you save on rent will more than likely surpass your monthly taxi fares.

Try to get accommodation near your workplace or at least within a reasonable distance of the school you'll be working in. It's difficult to say what an apartment will cost as it depends on quality and location; it can range from 2,000 baht for a spartan room in the boonies to 20,000 baht or more in the CBD. MrRoomfinder.com might give you some idea of what's out there, although I feel you'll mainly see the more expensive tip of the accommodation iceberg. As a rule of thumb, I think rent shouldn't take more than 20% out of your salary if you plan to make ends meet. Most landlords will insist on a two months' deposit and a month's rent up front. Utility charges will be another 500 to 5,000 baht monthly, mainly depending on your use of A/C.

Living and working near the beach is probably the dream of the majority of foreigners arriving in Thailand. It's also the dream of many expat teachers who have been in Thailand for years. I'd take it for what it is: a dream. Apart from a handful of jobs in Phuket, Hua Hin and some lesser known beach towns, the bulk of teaching positions can be found in and around Bangkok, which has after all a population of nearly ten million. For some, reality kicks in when you realise that living and working in Thailand is a world apart from coming here on a package holiday.

Although your health is invaluable, I don't think you should buy expensive medical insurance beforehand as Thailand is cheap compared to the west. Most people already have some kind of travel insurance anyway. Also, good employers offer medical insurance for free or at a reduced cost. If they don't, take out your own locally by contacting for example BUPA, a major insurance company which offers competitive packages or Ajarn.com's Group Package from Tony Dabbs. Don't bother bringing a truckload of medicine from home as Thailand probably has more pharmacies than the rest of the world combined. Yaa (Thai for medicine) is cheap as well.

In order to survive Thailand as a bachelor(ette) you don't need the skills of an experienced housewife as the average cost of eating out is anywhere from affordable to dirt cheap. Keeping your clothes clean is also a piece of cake as myriads of laundry shops around town are keen on washing your dirty underwear and pressing your shirts. Again, you don't have to break the bank to use these services. I don't think shopping even deserves to be mentioned, but let me point out anyway that small purchases can be made at the 7-Elevens that possibly outnumber the urban cockroaches. More substantial shopping pleasure – and possible credit card hemorrhaging - can be experienced at local or international hypermarkets such as Big C, Tesco Lotus and Carrefour, as well as at the massive shopping centres such as Siam Paragon, Central Plaza, The Mall, the Thai-style behemoth BMK, the hi-so hang-out Emporium and the snobbish Gaysorn, most of which are conveniently located within the city centre.

Once you're settled into your new job and dwelling, you should explore other possibilities for getting around cheaply such as motorbike taxis, vans, buses and river boats. Those of you who plan to work and travel around Thailand or Southeast Asia should realise that it's not always easy to take a few weeks or months off whenever you feel like it. Either choose a school which allows for long summer holidays or travel around the region before taking up a job. Southeast Asia is probably the easiest and cheapest part of the world to travel in, with lots of wonderful beaches, national wonders, ancient temple complexes and exotic foods. Although inexpensive, an average one month's itinerary will still cost around USD 1,000 minimum, so make sure to have either credit card or money belt available. If you're not into travelling, check out the parks Bangkok has to offer as they are welcome and relaxing oases in the noisy concrete jungle.

When coming to Siam from overseas, arriving on a tourist visa – if possible a multiple entry one – is probably the simplest and most sensible scenario, unless you can obtain a non-immigrant B visa at your local embassy without the hassle of needing to submit extensive paperwork from a prospective employer. After having found gainful employment, your employer should handle the necessary paperwork and apply for a work permit and a yearlong extension of your visa. If you arrived on a tourist visa, this will either need to be converted to a non-immigrant B within Thailand or you'll have to do a visa run to get the latter.

Remember that in order to be eligible for a work permit you should have at least a (genuine) bachelor's degree and a TEFL certificate (the latter is not required if you have a B.Ed). Make sure to bring the originals. If you get your non-immigrant B visa abroad, don't forget to bring a police clearance as well (the conversion of a tourist visa into a non-immigrant B within Thailand, although more expensive at 4,000 baht, seems to make a home police clearance redundant). For more information on this topic, please browse some other parts of this site, the forum or consult the Visa Guru, as I personally get splitting headaches from this ever-changing red tape. By the way, if you're a tree hugger or a nitpicker, this process will be sheer agony: not only will you be asked to sign a ludicrous amount of papers, it will also include a baffling amount of powers of attorney and possibly a few blank sheets just in case.

Although I've covered most of the practicalities in this article, I think that for many planning to move to Thailand the main hurdle before making the final decision to come to Thailand is psychological. From the dozens of emails I've received over the years, it is clear that you have lots of questions which in fact nobody can answer. The list is probably endless, but I'll give a few examples anyway (for more, look at the Questions sections elsewhere on this site).

• Which is the best TEFL course to take? (search for feedback on-line, scour the forum)
• Will I find a job without having experience? (likely)
• Without a degree? (possibly)
• Without either? (who knows)
• Without degree, experience, hair and teeth? (please stay put)
• Will I find a job in Pattaya or Phuket? (are you sure it's the teaching you love?)
• Is 55 too old to start a teaching career in Thailand? (probably not)
• Should I do a TEFL or start a job first? (the former would be better)
• I'm an American citizen but look Thai. Will I find a job? (I'd give it a try)
• I have a 3-year Teaching Diploma, am qualified to teach in my home country, have 21 years experience and have enrolled in a TESOL course. Would my overall qualifications be suitable for acceptance as a teacher of English in Thailand? (does a bear shit in the woods?)

The real answers to all these questions aren't just the ones in brackets, they are also 'I haven't a clue' as I don't personally know you, what drives you, how good and motivated you really are. Teachers with degrees and experience (and a score of unrealistic demands) occasionally muck up job interviews while others without either manage to worm themselves through the door, so if you'll ever get that plum job is anyone's guess. I can guarantee you one thing though: if you've really set your teeth into moving to Thailand and finding a job, you'll probably succeed as long as you try to suppress some of what is considered by Thai employers your arrogant western attitude and expectations. And even if you don't and eventually return back home, make sure to take the opportunity to explore the region and enjoy all the marvels Southeast Asia has to offer.

Finally, I don't think it would be a good idea to consider this column gospel, as some arrive in in Thailand each year woefully unprepared yet seem to find their bearings rapidly and adapt to living and working in a tropical country where some local customs range from eye-opening to mind-boggling. Anyway, as they aren't the ones to worry incessantly and to prepare themselves for every imaginable eventuality, they probably won't come across this piece unless they stumble upon it. This being said, if you have doubts about a move to the Land of Smiles – which is after all only human – I suggest you don't let your insecurity spoil the adventure you're about to embark upon. Take a deep breath and take the plunge; it is likely that you'll learn to swim before you drown. Genuine inquiries remain welcome, but please don't call me when you're stuck at the airport without a clue how to get to the city centre.

This column was inspired by dozens of e-mails received over the last few years and my own move back to Thailand where, after a relaxing six-months' break, I have taken up a new head teacher's position.

Photos can be found on www.flickr.com/photos/philiproeland.
The author of this article can be contacted at philiproeland@hotmail.co.uk.
1/4/2009

The Ideal Teacher

ideal (adj): perfect in every way

One of the typical brain-storming sessions during any teacher training course is the one where participants are asked what they think makes a good teacher. I'd like to take this one step further and examine what qualities the ideal teacher would possess. For teachers, this could be a checklist to compare themselves to this mythical creature. For head teachers or recruiters, it could be used to separate the wheat from the chaff and spot the ideal candidates among the throngs of wannabes.

Let me point out that this list is based more on personal experience than large-scale research. Also, while most qualities on the list are probably appreciated worldwide, some are considered particularly important in the Land of Smiles. You may be able to guess which. I preferred to list qualities in random order as we could discuss forever and a day which ones are the most important as this often depends on a multitude of variables.

So how to become the ideal teacher? You should be, have or do the following:

Empathetic

Identify yourself with your students and try to understand their needs, problems and anxieties (this is especially important when teaching youngsters). Your empathy will create goodwill, cooperation and respect. Sympathy (sharing others' feelings) won't do the trick as you may get too involved emotionally, nor will apathy (complete lack of interest or concern) as you may be mistaken for a teacher who couldn't care less.

Enthusiastic

How on earth can you stimulate learners into soaking up knowledge and participating actively in class if you're lessons are duller than watching paint dry? Show that you love your job, the English language, your students (within the boundaries of the law and school regulations) and your host country. Don't sit glued to your chair in front of the classroom all day.

Motivated/motivating

If you wake up every morning and think gloomy thoughts like 'What the hell did I do to deserve these little buggers' or 'I wish it was Friday', you're probably not the most motivated teacher in the world. Try to enjoy your job and do your best to become a better (or at least less horrible) teacher. Remember that your enthusiasm and motivation will rub off on your students. For more on how to motivate students, please read one of my last year's columns on this topic.

Good at building rapport

Try to create a bond, a harmonious understanding with your students. Promote an atmosphere of 'We're all in this together'. Make it clear that your door is always open and that you'll listen to their problems. If students see you as someone who will help them get their heads around the maligned English language instead of an enforcer shoving it down their throats mercilessly, more learning and cooperation will be achieved in the classroom. Showing empathy is crucial for building rapport.

Creative

When teaching outside the glamour of reputable international schools, you may find yourself with limited resources – or no resources at all. Never take the use of a photocopier for granted (even when there is one it may break down once in a while) and try to make lessons worthwhile and interesting without the need to copy half a dozen worksheets each lesson to kill time. If you've got absolutely no idea what to do with 40 bored and restless kids, peruse the school library (if there is one), go on the Internet and check out the countless teaching websites or create materials from scratch, based on your own experience. As for the Internet, there is a lot of good stuff out there for free; it just takes some time and effort to discover it and adapt it to your needs.

Discipline

Enforce discipline on yourself as well as on your students, but do it gently. Will yourself to refuse that 17th beer on the eve of a school day, have daily showers although they used to be weekly back home, read a good book instead of going out to watch Isan damsels gyrate chrome poles. There is absolutely no need to take up self-flagellation, become a teetotalling monk or beat students' heads against the nearest wall at the smallest infraction. Leave corporal punishment to local teachers who are much better at it and enjoy administering it.

Pragmatic

Don't be too idealistic and think that the English classroom is an peaceful and intellectual paradise where English proficiency is the highest goal of all students. It's not. It's often a war zone, with students playing the role of brain-damaged rebels keen to undermine all the efforts of the reviled officer in charge, i.e. you. Don't give up too quickly and try to see the bigger picture. Even if your materials are substandard or virtually non-existent and your students all but willing participants in the classroom, there must be something you can achieve. Instead of having them memorise Obama speeches or challenge James Joyce's writing skills, set achievable goals. For example, make sure they can at least introduce themselves intelligibly, write a short email without scores of mistakes or count to ten properly.

Sense of humour

Unless you want to establish a reputation as the driest teacher in school, have a laugh once in a while, crack a joke and enjoy at the lighter side of life. Be warned though that western humour is often very different from what locals find funny (Thais usually prefer slapstick). Telling dozens of jokes that only you think are funny will get you nowhere.

Well-qualified
a good teacher is not necessarily well-qualified and a well-qualified teacher is not necessarily good. however, qualifications are important and in my experience teachers with formal training and a relevant degree are often in a much better position to be successful at teaching english. if you think that being able to speak english means that you can teach it you are deluding yourself, so stop sending me emails asking if you'll find a job in thailand without a degree. you probably will but i think the los has already plenty of unqualified teachers without you joining the flock. also, for visa and work permit purposes, a degree (ba) and teaching certificate (such as tefl or celta) is often required – or do you intend to join the legion of illegal workers and visa-runners - or marry your local girlfriend you met in a beer bar in a desperate attempt to secure a non-immigrant o visa? if you have a degree but have never taught, enrol in a tefl course, go to workshops, brainstorm with colleagues, ask help from the head teacher, browse teacher's books and resource packs but don't rest on your laurels because the students seem to like your lessons and the bingo and hangman games you play with them.

Good teaching skills
Whether you have your whole wall plastered with degrees or not, make sure you have good basic skills in order to teach effectively. If elicitation, seating arrangement, pair and group work, speaking prompts, TTT or PPP mean absolutely nothing to you, get on a refresher course or read a decent methodology book (such as The Practice of English Language Teaching by Jeremy Harmer or Learning Teaching by Jim Scrivener).

Resourceful
I realise this is very similar to creative. For example, when students ask for the meaning of a word, don't just throw the translation at them in broken Thai (or any other L1) all the time because the odds of them understanding you are small anyway. Explain it in English first, ask them to look it up in an English-English dictionary, rephrase the definition, repeat it, mime it, draw it, use flashcards, make students guess its meaning from context. Finally, after most students have grasped its meaning, translation into their L1 isn't a bad thing as it will reassure them that they got it right.

Don't lecture
Limit your teacher talk time as much as possible. Give students the opportunity to practise the language, to digest (the material, not their lunch), ask questions, discuss and reflect. Never just sit at your desk and read literally what's in the course book. I had my fair share of lecturers in my school days and I always thought 'Do these guys think we can't read?'. By the way, the same goes for powerpoint presentations (with or without handouts).

Technology-savvy and computer-literate
You should at least be able to switch on a computer and operate common classrooms appliances such as overhead projector, tape recorder, CD-player and DVD-player. Knowing your way around the Internet, being able to use an interactive whiteboard, setting up a blog or website and coordinating classrooms projects online might get you a step ahead of your colleagues.

Patient
Patience is really an invaluable virtue. You will often need to explain something over and over again. Try your best to find different ways to explain something. Don't just explain (or lecture), but demonstrate, get feedback, let students explain to each other if necessary and give them plenty of non-threatening opportunities to practise. Learning by doing is one of my mottoes. Practice makes perfect is another.

Punctual
Be on time, no matter what. 'My alarm clock didn't go off' is a pathetic excuse so don't use it. Traffic jams, heavy rainfall and stomachaches are equally non-starters. Street food has never given me stomachache or food poisoning. Maybe you should keep the arsenic safely locked up. This is really a no-brainer: never make anyone wait for you. By the way, do you like waiting for others?

Reliable

As a teacher it is your job and duty to teach whenever you have a class. Calling in sick because you don't feel like it or you're hung over is unacceptable. If you did indeed ingest too much alcohol, at least be a (wo)man and teach with a hangover. You'll start feeling better in the afternoon anyway.

Flexible

Schedules may change, schools may be fire-bombed, colleagues may be unavailable due to a myriad of reasons such as visa runs, 'food poisoning', appointments at the local STD-clinic or girlfriend troubles so you may be asked to fill in for these slackers, possible for no extra pay. Just do it without too much complaining as it is an inescapable fact of life. Blaming the management is counterproductive; giving the absent loafer a piece of your mind is usually more effective.

Don't be a whinger

Moaning and groaning is part of quite a few teachers' daily routine. My advice: don't do it. It's not going to solve any problems or improve the situation you're in so you might just as well keep your big trap shut as it can really get on your colleagues' nerves. If you 'just want to get it off your chest', join an Internet forum or self-help group.

Good-looking

Some societies – or at least some of their cultural values - might be called shallow. Locals often idolise handsome, young(ish), white-skinned foreigners. This might be an unfair yet invaluable trump card for totally incompetent wannabes. If you're less fortunate in this department, don't despair. Don't rush to your local beauty clinic to schedule surgery with the resident quack or apply bleach to yourself as there are jobs for all of us.

Calm, cool and collected

If you're in a conflict situation, stay cool whatever happens (jai yen, literally cool-hearted). Smile, take a deep breath and think of an idyllic brook running through a green valley (or whatever works for you). Don't get all worked up, don't be hot-tempered (jai-rawn, literally hot-hearted), don't shout, don't accuse, don't point your finger to assign blame as this kind of behaviour will make everyone involved lose face, especially you. If in Asia, try never to be confrontational and understand the concept of face, which I admit is easier said than done.

Not overly critical

Adopt an easy-going and care-free approach to local life. Don't expect things to be like you think they should be. Please realise that criticism is absolutely taboo in Thailand (and lots of other countries), unfortunately even when it is meant to be constructive. Criticising people, their customs, lifestyle or way of doing business will get you nowhere. Criticising important people might get you in court for libel or slander. Criticising the monarchy will get you behind bars.

Good personal hygiene

Bathe at least twice a day and remember that perfume or deodorant are no alternatives to showering. Even if time is scarce, a quick shower doesn't last longer than a few minutes. Don't sport scruffy beards, dreadlocks, long hair or ponytails (absolute no-nos in Thailand and, by the way, completely passé). Visible tattoos or piercings are not appreciated either.

Sharply dressed

If you've no idea what this means, revisit the ZZ Top video 'Sharp Dressed Men'. I suppose nicely pressed shirts, fitting trousers, spit-polished shoes, stylish tie and matching socks sums it up for English teachers. In some Thai schools, a shabby yellow polo shirt may be mandatory.

Intelligible

You shouldn't necessarily speak the Queen's English, but if even your co-workers have a hard time understanding you, there is a problem. In the classroom, you should speak with a clear voice and enunciate well. Don't speak slowly nor quickly but use a natural rhythm. Refrain from pidgin English at all times; when students don't grasp what you're saying, repeat or rephrase instead of asking slowly nonsense like 'You go Japan before, yes or no?' as this will only give the impression that it's okay to use Thaiglish, Singlish or other local versions of English. Unless when dealing with advanced students or on purpose, avoid idioms and other colourful language that may impede communication.

Don't smoke

It's a fact that increasingly more parents and students insist that teachers don't smoke. Although I am absolutely against smoking myself, forcing teachers to kick their dirty habit is a delicate matter. Paying customers (who are always right) often argue that smokers – even when not smoking – emanate a pervasive and repulsive smell they don't want to be subjected to. I guess they are partly right, although employing non-smokers only is somewhat impractical and in many countries possibly illegal. When asked about a teacher's habits, I usually quip that none of my teachers smoke when they are inside the classroom.

Abstain from binge drinking and illegal drugs

Although you might argue that you are free to whatever you want in your free time, this should not interfere with your work-related activities. Smelling of alcohol or pot while on the job is inadmissible. If the damage is done, use strong chewing gum or plenty of deodorant (still better than calling in sick), but don't think for a minute this will fool the sniffer dogs at work. Let me stir up some controversy and question if we – in our role as educators – are really free to do as we please when off duty. Just put yourself in the shoes of a concerned parent. Would you want your kids to be taught by someone who is hammered on a daily basis, prefers a dose of magic mushrooms to a wholesome dinner and keeps the adult entertainment industry in business?

Respect local customs

'However daft they may seem to you' should be added here. Remember that when you're a long way from home, people do things differently. They may say yes when they mean no. The may smile when they are angry. They may waste perfectly good food to ward off imaginary spirits. They may think it's cool to wear childish clothes well into their 40s. They may think it's okay to insult you in your presence (e.g. calling you fat or pig-faced). They may expect you to join them to get plastered every day after work. They may think all foreigners are barbarians yet try to emulate them at the same time. They may think a successful marriage is based on money and deceit. They may keep the indoor temperature at 16 degrees Celsius but moan and groan (and put on thermal underwear) when the outdoor temperature drops below 18. Just make sure to prepare and adapt yourself if necessary (read a 'Culture Shock' book if available).

Thick-skinned

Local culture can be very different from your own. Whereas calling someone 'fatso' or 'slaphead' might trigger a fatal stabbing or at least a severe thrashing in the west, in some countries it is just a way of life. Don't start crying or make a big deal out of it when your students – children and adults alike – blandly state you are fat (although your relatives back home might be impressed with your recent weight loss) or ugly (although some local ladies insist you're a handsome man).

Realistic

Set yourself a number of personal and professional goals, but don't overreach. If you plan to teach in a developing country, you might earn less than where you came from. Don't start arguing that 'You're worth at least 4,000 dollars in New York' or 'You could make that much flipping burgers at home' when you're applying for a teaching job in upcountry Thailand. Remember that the cost of living is usually much lower so you should still be able to have a good life and put some money aside. At work, don't expect students to become fluent within weeks. Set realistic and achievable goals.

Loyal

Don't think that this is solely for the benefit of your employer. Not only the school you work for and the students you teach will appreciate it, but you might benefit from it as well. There might be a yearly pay rise that may seem insubstantial, but after a few years could add up to a handsome sum. Doing a runner or breaking your contract every time you get offered a slightly higher salary or blow a gasket because of some triviality won't look too good on your CV either. If you've worked for seven different schools in the last three years, schools may start being reluctant to hire you before thoroughly checking your references or blindly believing all your alleged strengths. By the way, blaming all your former employers for your ability to hold a job is laughable. Finally, the high teacher turnover in general won't reflect too positively on the foreign teaching community as a whole.

Speak English

By this I don't mean that your English should be of a high standard, which is self-evident, but that you should speak it in the classroom as much as possible during an English lesson. This seems to be especially difficult for those teachers who speak the students' L1. Many but not all of these teachers are locals who don't seem to have no qualms about conducting a whole English lesson in Thai. Don't short-change your students this way as it will prevent them from ever achieving decent communicative skills. Students need to be exposed to the language they're learning. Don't use L1 in the classroom before exhausting all other options first.

Country of origin

It is a fact that most schools prefer to hire native speakers. In my opinion however, being a native speaker of English is far less important than all the other criteria mentioned above. Let's not forget that more than 90 per cent of English teachers worldwide are locals. Actually, expecting every English teacher to be a native speaker is mathematically impossible. As long as a teacher's language and teaching skills are up to par (which, I admit, isn't always the case, especially in Thailand), it doesn't really matter where they are from. Native speakers might be great at teaching conversation and offer more natural and authentic speech, but since most of the English conversations worldwide now take place between non-native speakers, this is no longer the advantage some claim it to be. Some readers sent me emails asking if there are opportunities for either non-native speakers or degreeless teachers in Thailand. If you weren't born in the right country, just have a look at the above list and see if you think you'd qualify. The same goes for 'teachers' without a degree.

Finally, as an ideal teacher you realise that no human being in the world possesses all the above-mentioned qualities. Therefore, you understand that nobody's perfect and, as a result of this convoluted logic, you don't exist.

Check out Philip's photo portfolio on www.flickr.com/photos/philiproeland.

The author of this article can be contacted at philiproeland@hotmail.co.uk.

1/3/2009

The Growing Pains Of The TEFL Industry

English is a world language. Correction, English is the world language. Although there might be more native speakers of Mandarin Chinese, Hindu, Arabic or Spanish, it should be obvious that English is the most important language of international business, tourism and the Internet. Just look around you: Japanese businessmen speak English with their Thai counterparts; Swiss tourists speak English in Mexico; Cambodian students chat in English with Brazilian cyberfriends. Whether you like it or not, being able to communicate in English has become quite important in our ever more globalised world, unless you work in an area of your country where contact with English-speaking foreigners is virtually unheard of (a remote village in central China perhaps) or are do a menial job that doesn't require any contact with foreign barbarians.

Keeping this in mind, it is no wonder that demand for English lessons and capable English teachers has exploded, especially with vast countries such as China opening their doors to the world. Of course, English as a school subject has been around for decades in many countries, with most of the lessons being taught by local teachers with a decent working knowledge of the language. More often than not, this approach has been quite successful, proof whereof can be found in an interesting statistic: when taken into account the number of people capable of speaking English not only as a first, but also as a second or even third language, there are more speakers of English than any other language in the world.

In some parts of the world, especially Europe and former British colonies, learning English in school and becoming semi-fluent in the language of Shakespeare has been around for more than half a century. Local qualified teachers who have relevant degrees and are fairly fluent in English are usually in charge of conducting lessons and teaching pupils the four skills, with an emphasis on speaking and listening needed for oral communication. As modern course books are quite encompassing, reading and writing aren't forgotten either, with many curricula providing for essential contemporary skills such as email writing or skim reading. It might be important to add that most western or westernised schools adhere to the student-centred learning methodology, in which student needs and active learning are given high importance. Classroom sizes are usually manageable.

In other parts of the world, especially major parts of Asia but also swaths of South America, local qualified English teachers are not as abundant. Their skills are also different: many excel at teaching grammar and reading and they often use L1 abundantly in the classroom. Let's not forget that many Asian schools still use the teacher-centred approach, in which the teacher acts as a lecturer and students are not supposed to participate or even ask questions. Rote learning still rules and critical thinking is not encouraged, sometimes even suppressed. Although most curricula have been rewritten to focus on communicative skills, many teachers haven't changed their old ways. This is because they either lack the abilities or due to other factors such as resistance to change in general (not to be underestimated), supersized classrooms and lack of support and teacher development.

As a consequence, many schools have resorted to hiring foreign English teachers in order to improve students' skills. Said teachers are often given the task of teaching conversation, something they are normally best at. Also, the fact that many students don't learn the necessary skills to communicate in the real world by just going to regular school has fuelled the demand for ever more tutoring schools where students study English at the weekend or after hours on weekdays. Needless to say that the whole EFL industry, comprising public schools as well as private language institutes is big business as affluent parents are willing to shell out a small fortune to make sure their offspring get a head start in their professional lives.

Do customers get their money's worth and is this approach working? Absolutely. It is a given that most foreign English teachers – the majority of which are native or near-native speakers – are much better at teaching English (esp. conversation) than many of the local teachers. That students are exposed to different accents and real-world English is an added bonus, although I think this should not be overestimated as most English speakers worldwide are now non-native speakers; many of my Thai business students used to complain that they found it very hard to understand the Japanese speaking English (talk about the pot calling the kettle black).

Moreover, let's not forget that in Asian societies, 'face' is hugely important; especially parents will gain lots of face if they can boast to friends and family that their loved one is being taught by a handsome westerner. This might be the reason why customers or parents often tend to place appearance before substance: it is a fact that skin colour, age and number of teeth remaining are often more important than teaching skills or academic qualifications when looking for a teaching job. But then again, isn't the customer always right?

Let me ask it again. Do customers get their money's worth and is this approach working? Absolutely not. As demand often exceeds offer, recruiters sometimes revert to hiring unqualified and unsuitable individuals posing as teachers. Background checks are non-existent or perfunctory at best. Private and public schools alike shamelessly take parents' money and promise them English skills on a silver platter only to never materialise after. Moreover, students and parents alike often expect foreign teachers to perform miracles. They think that being in the presence of a foreigner will trigger a magical osmosis transferring the teacher's skills to students without the latter having to make any real effort. Schools are guilty as well when they assign huge classes and then expect fluency in return.

So what's the deal? Do customers really get their money's worth and is this approach working? The above should make it clear that this depends on how you look at it. Nothing in life is ever completely black or white. The EFL industry is far from perfect. Many of the English teachers making a living in it are far from perfect. Let's not forget that nothing in life is ever perfect. Are students learning anything at all? I think they are, although not nearly enough in many cases. In my opinion, we should not only take into account students' achievements when judging the efficiency of EFL lessons but also customer satisfaction – EFL is a business after all. Doing so, I think that overall, the scales are still tipping towards the positive.

Last month, fellow columnist Steve Schertzer wrote a column – or rather diatribe – crucifying the EFL industry and even questioned if it shouldn't be completely shut down. The reason for his scathing attack was the arrest of a Canadian teacher formerly working in Thailand, John Wrenshall, involved in an international paedophile ring. In a personal twist of fate, this nabbed pedophile used to be his boss, mentor and friend while Steve was working in Bangkok. Consequently, Steve felt betrayed and thought it necessary to vilify the whole EFL industry, calling it ad nauseam a stinking, putrid corpse, apparently forgetting he has been part of this rotting cadaver for years.

I can understand Steve's disillusion with someone he probably trusted and looked up to. I also think part of his criticism is justified; teachers, administrators, recruiters and policy-makers alike should question themselves and the industry they are in more regularly. I do not, however, agree with the overall image that Steve paints of the EFL industry. The big majority of English teachers are not unqualified backpackers, vicious child predators, chronic boozers or perverted sexaholics, as Steve claims. These do exist of course, but the generalisations made in Steve's column are downright insulting to a significant part of the EFL community.

By the way, I'm sure the face of the EFL industry depends on where you look. I guess there might be more pot-smoking Canadians working to pay off a student loan in South Korea. There are probably more backpacker teachers in Southeast Asia than the rest of the world combined. I also suppose that there are more horny teachers living and working in Bangkok than in any other major city of the world. The percentage of sex-addicted teachers in Bangkok probably skyrockets when marital status (single) and location (city centre) are taken into account.

Steve not only seems to target child abusers in his column. Every participant in the adult entertainment industry and cosmopolitan nightlife had better beware. In Steve's universe, the whole local cottage industry of erotic service providers caters solely to the likes of ill-paid EFL teachers commuting to the restricted pleasure zones by non-airconditioned buses. Our reborn moral crusader has even the deepest contempt of innocent netizens who indulge in the vile act of what he calls 'beating their meat' to Internet porn.

Well, I guess if we put good old Steve in charge, self-gratification in the privacy of one's own home would soon become punishable by castration. Why don't we just shut down the Internet while we're at it? Steve's approach might be a welcome solution to the problem of overpopulation though, with possibly half the male population worldwide in danger of losing their nuts.

In order to avoid gratuitous sneers, let me point out that I'm not on the defensive here as I don't even have the luxury of Internet at home. I'm just concerned about all those manufacturers of blister creams going under. Moreover, I never beat anything except for eggs and drums; and after reading Steve's column I wanted to beat my head against the wall. No, really, I guess I'm just sticking up for common sense. I mean, before you know it, Steve will have all sex toys banned worldwide and put the whole of Holland behind bars. Not to mention a possible ban on the sale of alcohol to all males suspected of being employed as English teachers.

I don't want to imply anything or point an accusing finger to Steve, but wasn't he himself a SWM living and working in downtown Bangkok? All I'm implying is that his perception of the typical EFL teacher might have been skewed and that the incidence of love hotel visits or child buggery is much lower among teachers who don't live in central Bangkok (or Pattaya); also, numbers continue to drop markedly when we include teachers who are either in a long-term relationship, married, live outside the city centre or upcountry.

During my time in Thailand as a teacher and head teacher I saw, met and worked with some dubious characters. They were a small minority, however, although I have to admit this was on the outskirts of Bangkok and in neighbouring provinces. When hiring teachers, I always tried to separate the wheat from the chaff. Checking teachers' degrees and credentials as well as schools insisting on a police background check are highly recommended, but can never rule out the possibility of unsavoury con men slipping through the net.

I don't think any of my teachers were deviants like John Wrenshall, although I realise I can never be sure until they eventually get arrested. As far as I am aware, the most serious charges that some of my teachers were ever guilty of were smelling of alcohol or cigarettes, sporting haircuts that suggested their barber had long died or was at least chronically ill, wearing ill-fitting trousers and wrinkled shirts, applying overdoses of deodorant, delivering the occasional sleep-inducing lesson and being seen drinking energy drinks at work.

Although I am fully in favour of employing the best teachers, I am not convinced that implementing ever more rigorous police checks and more stringent degree requirements are beneficial to the Thai EFL industry. If teachers, either in-country or would-be teachers, are asked to jump through ever more hoops, what was intended to keep out the riffraff might backfire and have the opposite effect. It may scare off decent teachers from making Thailand their home and drive out some of the better teachers who see this as the straw that broke the camel's back.

Let's not forget that criminal background checks only verify the past, thus merely barring known and convicted criminals (By the way, does a conviction for shoplifting or juvenile delinquency carry the same weight as one for child molestation? It wouldn't surprise me). Also, what percentage of child molesters out there has ever been convicted is anyone's guess. It's just a gut feeling, but I suspect that the majority of abusers have escaped justice so far, thus rendering the important background checks somewhat ineffectual. I daresay it is partly the responsibility of head teachers and colleagues to expose bragging molesters; I, for one, wouldn't have any qualms about turning in a suspected child molester.

Another solution would be the introduction of palm readings and tarot sessions for weeding out the bad apples as these techniques are virtually foolproof for predicting someone's future. However, as it is still illegal to fire or refuse to hire people for acts committed in the future, this is a dead end. Firing teachers for the offence of looking like potential axe murderers is also impractical since at least half of all existing teachers would lose their jobs overnight.

As for the degree requirements, in a perfect world every teacher would have a Bachelor's Degree of Education or an MA in English (or any other required field) plus a teaching certificate (preferably PGCE or CELTA I suppose). I think it is evident that given the massive need for teachers in Asia, these requirements are not always met. In fact, in Thailand they are partly responsible – together with the criminal background checks and the massive amount of red tape – for the influx of not-so-qualified 'teachers' who usually end up working illegally, i.e. without a work permit. Schools that pay well can afford to be demanding; schools that offer peanuts normally end up with a fair amount of monkeys among applicants.

Finally, as I am a positive person, I prefer to gently point out possible defects and offer advice to remedy a situation rather than harshly criticise or condemn. This is true when dealing with students as well as teachers. Correcting a student too severely or too openly (especially in Asia) is counterproductive. I believe the same goes for observing teachers. One should point out a teacher's strengths first (e.g. great tie) and praise them before subtly offering some pointers on how to improve the aspects of their teaching that aren't perfect yet (e.g. bicycal isn't spelt that way). Unless they are so bad that they are beyond salvage (e.g. Elvis hairstyle) - in which case just firing them outright is the best option - I think repeated or harsh criticism doesn't work.

I think I've made my point. Although the EFL industry is still booming, it is sometimes going through rough times. However, I believe there still are many qualified and dedicated teachers who make a positive contribution to learning English around the world; they definitely outnumber the drunks and deviants found not only in the EFL industry but in all layers of society (Remember all those priests molesting altar boys? I don't recall any outcries for the abolition of the Catholic Church).

Finally, I personally know many capable and decent teachers who don't deserve the foul language and blatant generalisations used by Steve Schertzer in his personal requiem of the EFL industry. Maybe Steve is under severe stress and needs a break from teaching to put things in perspective. To his credit, he was brutally honest about his feelings and wasn't afraid of letting the world know. I doubt if it will change anything though as I've already stated that harsh criticism is usually just like water off a duck's back. What I find more disconcerting is that Steve seems to revel in making enemies. A professional like him should know that this won't get him anywhere, save a psychiatric ward.

Maybe he wrote the column while he was down and out. Fair enough. It wasn't the first time his somber mood was reflected in his writings. I felt personally embarrassed for him while reading his latest July column. His recount of how a Filipina predator took him for a ride had me seesaw between cringing and laughing out loud. At least he didn't start a campaign to have the Philippines nuked back to the Stone Age.

So please Steve, take a deep breath and get a grip. Stop acting like a hysterical housewife on the verge of a nervous breakdown and quit dragging all of us through the mud. See a shrink, take up meditation or become a practising Buddhist, and at least try to comprehend that lashing out indiscriminately and being pessimistic and defeatist is not going to solve any problems. Be constructive, write some 'How to' columns rather than 'How not to' ones. Focus on the positive, rather than keep dwelling on the negative. If I want gloomy tidings or dreary forecasts, I'll just watch CNN or read the latest stock market update.

By the way, my column just reflects my personal opinion and was written while sober. I don't want to start a war of words or generate venomous discussions. In my view, the EFL industry is alive and kicking; it is definitely experiencing growing pains, but it is all but a putrid corpse although some teachers might look like living dead on a Monday morning after a heavy weekend. But then again, who notices when most of the students and co-workers behave like zombies anyway?

New sets of photos from Northern Laos, Northern and Northeastern Thailand (Isaan) are now available on www.flickr.com/photos/philiproeland.

The author of this article can be contacted at philiproeland@hotmail.co.uk.

1/2/2009